Guidebook for Paris
Food Scene
Worth checking out, but expensive
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Sébastien Gaudard - Pâtisserie des Martyrs
3 Rue des MartyrsWorth checking out, but expensive
Nice to eat here when it's warm out. Simple menu, wasn't too expensive when I was here until 2009 or so
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L'Eté en Pente Douce
8 Rue Paul AlbertNice to eat here when it's warm out. Simple menu, wasn't too expensive when I was here until 2009 or so
I don't really recommend this but it's an Australian joint (formerly the Kookaburra Café) and they speak English. Expensive, overrated, smug. But also a recent fixture in the neighborhood
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KB CaféShop
53 Av. TrudaineI don't really recommend this but it's an Australian joint (formerly the Kookaburra Café) and they speak English. Expensive, overrated, smug. But also a recent fixture in the neighborhood
Good Moroccan food. Used to be on the rue des Martyrs (well, many years ago now I guess). We also just like the Avenue Trudaine
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Restaurant L'Oriental Paris
47 Av. TrudaineGood Moroccan food. Used to be on the rue des Martyrs (well, many years ago now I guess). We also just like the Avenue Trudaine
Rated a top-10 tapas bar in Paris by TimeOut (Jan 2013) . Not been to 9 others so I can't say, but went a Wednesday evening in April 2015 and enjoyed a jazz band and a mixed crowd. Not cheap but OK €
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La Guêpe
14 Rue des Trois FrèresRated a top-10 tapas bar in Paris by TimeOut (Jan 2013) . Not been to 9 others so I can't say, but went a Wednesday evening in April 2015 and enjoyed a jazz band and a mixed crowd. Not cheap but OK €
Not cheap for the neighborhood, but a nice place to sit away from the tourists and the noisy boulevard. One of four Corso brasseries in Paris, produced in association with the Costes brothers group
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Corso
10 Av. TrudaineNot cheap for the neighborhood, but a nice place to sit away from the tourists and the noisy boulevard. One of four Corso brasseries in Paris, produced in association with the Costes brothers group
Japanese food, quite decent and popular with locals. Closed Mondays
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New Naoko
3 Rue des AbbessesJapanese food, quite decent and popular with locals. Closed Mondays
Good, large (but not dietetic) salads, plus service all day. They also own the Marmite down on the boulevard (similar menu) and another Relais Gascon down the street on Joseph Le Maistre
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Le relais Gascon
6 Rue des AbbessesGood, large (but not dietetic) salads, plus service all day. They also own the Marmite down on the boulevard (similar menu) and another Relais Gascon down the street on Joseph Le Maistre
One of the ten best pizza restaurants in Paris! Not cheap but worth it. Open only at meal times. Take out hot sandwiches good too. The boss is friendly even if I've never seen his wife smile once in 15 years. They don't let you share pizzas here at dinner time so bring your appetite
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Da Carmine
61 Rue des MartyrsOne of the ten best pizza restaurants in Paris! Not cheap but worth it. Open only at meal times. Take out hot sandwiches good too. The boss is friendly even if I've never seen his wife smile once in 15 years. They don't let you share pizzas here at dinner time so bring your appetite
Shellfish platters! Recently expanded from when I lived in the neighborhood. Looks like for the better. Nice shellfish counter now
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La Mascotte
52 Rue des AbbessesShellfish platters! Recently expanded from when I lived in the neighborhood. Looks like for the better. Nice shellfish counter now
At the time we lived down the street, it was probably the best restaurant in the Abbesses sector, one of the few that wasn't catering to tourists but to locals. Our friends in the neighborhood have said that since then, their opinion has slipped of this place but it's still worth a look.
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Café Miroir
94 Rue des MartyrsAt the time we lived down the street, it was probably the best restaurant in the Abbesses sector, one of the few that wasn't catering to tourists but to locals. Our friends in the neighborhood have said that since then, their opinion has slipped of this place but it's still worth a look.
I last ate here in 2011 so not a recent recommendation. What I remember was the friendly staff and chic, interesting food
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Braisenville
36 Rue CondorcetI last ate here in 2011 so not a recent recommendation. What I remember was the friendly staff and chic, interesting food
Haven't been here myself yet but it's close and TimeOut gave it a stellar rating (28 April 2015): http://www.timeout.com/paris/en/restaurants/les-affranchis
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Les Affranchis
5 Rue Henry MonnierHaven't been here myself yet but it's close and TimeOut gave it a stellar rating (28 April 2015): http://www.timeout.com/paris/en/restaurants/les-affranchis
Again, TimeOut gave this high marks in 2015 (http://www.timeout.com/paris/en/restaurants/le-pavillon-des-canaux). I can attest that this area is worth a leisurely weekend stroll
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Le Pavillon des Canaux
39 Quai de la LoireAgain, TimeOut gave this high marks in 2015 (http://www.timeout.com/paris/en/restaurants/le-pavillon-des-canaux). I can attest that this area is worth a leisurely weekend stroll
TimeOut Paris recently (July 2017) wrote a review of the US-style chicken counter: https://www.timeout.fr/paris/restaurants/cot-cot
Cot Cot
21 Rue GérandoTimeOut Paris recently (July 2017) wrote a review of the US-style chicken counter: https://www.timeout.fr/paris/restaurants/cot-cot
Pain Pain moved across the street in 2015 or so from their previous spot on the other side of the Butte Montmartre and we're all the better for it. Winner of the Best Baguette in Paris 2012 (from their old location), they have a chic interior AND they serve coffee, which are both rare for French bakeries
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Pain Pain
59 Rue des MartyrsPain Pain moved across the street in 2015 or so from their previous spot on the other side of the Butte Montmartre and we're all the better for it. Winner of the Best Baguette in Paris 2012 (from their old location), they have a chic interior AND they serve coffee, which are both rare for French bakeries
What a pleasant surprise to have a full Lebanese menu including mint tea (or coffee) and a baklava desert for under 20€. BYOB, because they don't have the liquor license but they will suggest the two grocers a few doors over if you forget to bring your bottle. We spent an excellent summer evening in 2017 dining on the terrace here
Chez Sofia
6 Pl. Gustave ToudouzeWhat a pleasant surprise to have a full Lebanese menu including mint tea (or coffee) and a baklava desert for under 20€. BYOB, because they don't have the liquor license but they will suggest the two grocers a few doors over if you forget to bring your bottle. We spent an excellent summer evening in 2017 dining on the terrace here
Bakery and café, one of my wife's favorite spots for brunch. I personally hate sitting on the sloped sidewalk so I tend to go inside
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Coquelicot
24 Rue des AbbessesBakery and café, one of my wife's favorite spots for brunch. I personally hate sitting on the sloped sidewalk so I tend to go inside
Drinks & Nightlife
This wine shop has a little secret bar at the end worth having a glass and a plate of cheese in. They will also bring you a tray of oysters from the Mascotte (across the street). Friendliness varies.
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La Cave des Abbesses
43 Rue des AbbessesThis wine shop has a little secret bar at the end worth having a glass and a plate of cheese in. They will also bring you a tray of oysters from the Mascotte (across the street). Friendliness varies.
My old haunt, besides La Fourmi. Was a pleasant place for a drink but it's been a while since I've been back. I'm told it's a bit overrun by hipsters these days (I was not a hipster)
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Le Progrès
1 Rue de BretagneMy old haunt, besides La Fourmi. Was a pleasant place for a drink but it's been a while since I've been back. I'm told it's a bit overrun by hipsters these days (I was not a hipster)
This is the café where the film "Amélie" (1999) was filmed
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Café des Deux Moulins
15 Rue LepicThis is the café where the film "Amélie" (1999) was filmed
A bit smug and was once very trendy but the glass court is a nice place to sit and there is a foosball table in the restrooms downstairs. I personally think that its status as the chic place to be has now be usurped by Le Pigalle on rue Frochot
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Hôtel Amour
8 Rue de NavarinA bit smug and was once very trendy but the glass court is a nice place to sit and there is a foosball table in the restrooms downstairs. I personally think that its status as the chic place to be has now be usurped by Le Pigalle on rue Frochot
This is really my old watering hole and I still stop by in the mornings for coffee when I'm back in town, and beer in the afternoon. Despite its location on the boulevard, it is neither touristy nor pretentious. Haven't ever eaten here but they do serve food. Note that they do NOT have internet (not a bad thing!) but you can get the wifi from the Marmite across the street...
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La Fourmi
74 Rue des MartyrsThis is really my old watering hole and I still stop by in the mornings for coffee when I'm back in town, and beer in the afternoon. Despite its location on the boulevard, it is neither touristy nor pretentious. Haven't ever eaten here but they do serve food. Note that they do NOT have internet (not a bad thing!) but you can get the wifi from the Marmite across the street...
Formerly a seedier street, the rue Frochot and the SoPi district and in general have become pretty trendy. In no small part due to this hotel. Not cheap but really hip and enjoyable
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Folies Pigalle
9 Rue FrochotFormerly a seedier street, the rue Frochot and the SoPi district and in general have become pretty trendy. In no small part due to this hotel. Not cheap but really hip and enjoyable
They have a pétanque (bocce) court, that's why. A little crowded and loud but that's a testament to its popularity (and they have three such bars now in Paris) and to my middle age. Oh well.
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CHEZ BOUBOULE PIGALLE
79 Av. TrudaineThey have a pétanque (bocce) court, that's why. A little crowded and loud but that's a testament to its popularity (and they have three such bars now in Paris) and to my middle age. Oh well.
Shopping
Chinemachine
100 Rue des MartyrsCool second-hand clothes & stuff
You can get ink cartridges for the printer here (and anything else electronic or household)
DARTY Montmartre
56 Blvd Marguerite de RochechouartYou can get ink cartridges for the printer here (and anything else electronic or household)
Everything Else
Bakery. Voted best baguette in Paris in 2010 and AGAIN this year (2015)! Now of course, there's a line out the door. But we have numerous good (and also former winners!) bakeries in the neighborhood.
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Le Grenier à Pain
38 Rue des AbbessesBakery. Voted best baguette in Paris in 2010 and AGAIN this year (2015)! Now of course, there's a line out the door. But we have numerous good (and also former winners!) bakeries in the neighborhood.
Bakery/Pastries and voted best baguette in Paris in 2007 or 2008
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Maison Arnaud Delmontel
39 Rue des MartyrsBakery/Pastries and voted best baguette in Paris in 2007 or 2008
This is the heart of lower Montmartre (Butte Montmartre). Tons of shops and bars/cafés, open on Sundays and holidays (unlike a lot of Paris). A lot of French cinema professionals still live in this neighborhood. Metro line 12, but make sure the elevators are working or you have 9 flights of stairs to walk up!
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Place des Abbesses
16 Pl. des AbbessesThis is the heart of lower Montmartre (Butte Montmartre). Tons of shops and bars/cafés, open on Sundays and holidays (unlike a lot of Paris). A lot of French cinema professionals still live in this neighborhood. Metro line 12, but make sure the elevators are working or you have 9 flights of stairs to walk up!
Sightseeing
Place Lino Ventura
Place Lino VenturaDon't forget to wander down here on lower Martrys, it's a nice walk
Everything here, the chic side of lower Montmartre. Post office, banks, cafés. The center of the neighborhood for the film "Amélie"
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Rue des Abbesses
Rue des AbbessesEverything here, the chic side of lower Montmartre. Post office, banks, cafés. The center of the neighborhood for the film "Amélie"
The Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Paris
35 Rue du Chevalier de la BarreClassic hub of Montmartre where artists traditionally (used to) congregate to sell their wares and paint portraits
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Place du Tertre
Place du TertreClassic hub of Montmartre where artists traditionally (used to) congregate to sell their wares and paint portraits
Arts & Culture
Our tiny local cinéma! Films in English (or original language at least with French subtitles). Auditorium designed by Cocteau. Tea room open all day
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Studio 28
10 Rue TholozéOur tiny local cinéma! Films in English (or original language at least with French subtitles). Auditorium designed by Cocteau. Tea room open all day
Arenes de Montmartre
25 Rue ChappeEssentials
Largest grocery market in the neighborhood, open until 23h. Good selection of products. Closed Sundays
NB this is on r Martyrs and not at Anvers Metro as the map shows
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Carrefour Market Paris
68 Bd BarbèsLargest grocery market in the neighborhood, open until 23h. Good selection of products. Closed Sundays
NB this is on r Martyrs and not at Anvers Metro as the map shows